Ephesus

We came west to Kuşadası so that we could visit the famous Ephesus. You can’t come this far on a trip around Turkey and not visit Ephesus and Kuşadası is a short 20 minute drive away.

People have been living around Ephesus since 6000 BC but it wasn’t until 1000 BC that a town was founded about two miles from its ancient location.

Before the rise of Christianity, Ephesians worshiped the Greek goddess Artemis. The temple built in her honor around 550 B.C. was so large and elaborate that Alexander the Great exempted Ephesus from paying taxes until it was completed to avoid further strain on the city’s treasury. It was considered to be one of wonders of the ancient world and was indicative of the importance of Ephesus.

Unfortunately it was destroyed in about 650 BC by the attacking Cimmerians and so is not visible today.

The location of the town on the Aegean made it the final stop on the Silk Road as goods were then transferred to boats for shipping.

At its peak around 300,000 people lived in Ephesus. It was the commercial capital of the Roman Empire.

As you begin your walk into Ephesus you pass between two gorgeous rows of trees (mulberry trees?).

You then round the bend and catch your first glimpse of the incredible theatre of Ephesus.

It was in this theatre that seated 25,000 where the Apostle Paul preached to the Ephesians, begging them to cease their worship of Artemis and to turn to Christianity. The Book of Acts notes the riots that followed Paul’s preaching.

The biblical book following Acts is known as the Letter to the Ephesians (or just Ephesians for short) and is where Paul exhorts “Christians, get along with each other! Maintain the unity practically which Christ has effected positionally by his death.”

Today the theatre is used mostly for musical concerts as the acoustics are claimed to be quite good.

Of course the most famous remaining building at Ephesus is the Library of Celsus.

Built in 135BC, authors of the time competed to have their books accepted by the library. It was known as THE library for the Roman Empire. It was very impressive to be in its presence.

We probably took 100 pictures of the Library.

There really wasn’t a bad angle.

And of course the classic angle.

The Ephesians were very liberal for the day, including woman’s suffrage, legal prostitution (so they could tax it), and by all accounts were very frank about their bodies. Archeologists say men and women sat side-by-side in the public lavatory near the brothel, visiting and gossiping.

The main street of Ephesus leads up a gently sloping hill, with ruins of different businesses such as cafes lining it.

We also made time to visit the Terrace Houses which are indicative of how wealthy Ephesians lived. They are called this because they are built into the side of the hill that rises up from the main street and are terraced.

Homes had several bedrooms, bathrooms, and living areas. Too much to show here, really.

At the top of the hill was the town council chambers, also shaped like a theatre but smaller.

Ephesus suffered a cruel ending when it was struck by a catastrophic earthquake in the 6th century. As a result of the quake, the sea receded, swamps developed and the area became infested with malaria. Because it was no longer a seaport, Ephesus was no longer strategic or important and ultimately was abandoned.

The first excavation was started 160 years ago in 1863. But despite all that you see uncovered, 80 percent of the city remains to be excavated. Archeologists sift through rock and soil by hand so as not to damage the relics. They estimate they will need another 400 years to complete uncovering the rest of Ephesus.

We could have taken pictures all day but will leave you with the image of the Goddess of Nike who appears on a fragment of marble.

In Greek Mythology, Nike was the Goddess of speed, strength and victory. If you look closely you’ll see she has the same general shape as the iconic Nike Swoosh logo.

If was quite a day! If you’re thinking of visiting Ephesus, I’d do it soon. It looks so fragile that it could be one bad earthquake away from being fully ruined.